Shey Phoksundo Lake
Day 106 : Dolpa Camp 1
Huh..it was Dolpo.I was dam excited to go through Dolpo region. Following about 10 minutes same way to Mustang, crossing Kaligandaki river and began climbing uphill from nearby village named Tirigaon.It took 6 hours to reach Jeula Danda(hill) and was really hard climb with my heavy backpack. Continued to walk for 45 minutes and encountered flat place with stream running just nearby the ground (N 28,52’42.62”-E083,43’44.83”).I didn`t know what exactly the place is called so didn’t they. Fortunately there was a boy with three Nepali camped on same site. So I decided to camp there too.They were going towards Kagbeni having completed Lower Dolpo Trek.
Thats the cave!!!
Day 107 : A night in a cave
I was entering completely into the different world and enjoyed scenery of unknown world. The trail was flat and steep descend to Dundhok River, which was 3.5 hours of walk. Then slow ascend about 1000m will led to hill which consisted Chorten (Buddhist monument) and a village on opposite side. We passed the straight graveled narrow trail, which was bit, scary and luckily didn’t have any accident. After walking for 5.5 hours I reached to a cave and decided to spend a night in the cave (N28,53’50.29”-E083,36’1.76”).
“Home is where my tent is..”
Day 108 : Cave to Norbulung
Some people, I met on the way suggested me that the trail I was heading was scary due to danger of falling rocks, narrow trail and graveled path. But I dared to go ahead( may be I was stupid then) and was not easy way in real. It was breathe…….taking….(not amazing)It was short way and short way is never easy.It took 6.5 hours to reach Niwar Pass(5120m) then descend to Norbulung for 3.5 hours.
“Ya..thats the rocky trail I had to conquer ….”
Day 109: Norbulung to Charka Bhot (4110m)
Walking along the Thansan River and crossing river several time to follow right trail, crossing some of the huge Yak pastureland, it took 6 hours to reach Charka Bhot
“Face of Dolpo..”
Day 110 : Charka Bhot
My knee was not in good condition and had fever so I decided to take rest for one day in Charka. Charka is huge village has few local shops, school, health post (but no medicine and no health worker).
“Walking on no man`s land..”
Day 111 : Charka Bhot to Rapka (4535m)
Clouds covering high hills and snow pouring down, then for sure I could say that weather was not in my favour. But I still had to get going on with my trail. Leaving Charka behind, crossing Chortens,I climbed Yak pastureland and in 4.25 hours I reached Mola La(5027m) and descent for 4hours to reach Rapka.Rapka is big pastureland where you can’t find any houses. Again for one more night my tent was my home.
“Getting higher and higher…”
Day 112 : Rapka to Tinje (4150m)
Leaving campsite on the bank of river in Rapka, after walking for 6.5 hours, reached to big village named Tinje. Just after crossing the mysterious old Tinje airport, I met young boy from the village. When I asked if I could find hotel or any place to live,he welcomed me to his house. He could speak just few Nepali word but I was amazed with his father`s fluent Nepali.Most of the people from the village didn’t know Nepali language, they only spoke their mother tongue language; Tibetan origin language which I could understand. When I spoke Tibetan with them, they treated me as their family member and they were really friendly and helpful.
Day 113 : Tinje to Komas (4060m)
The trail was narrow and following the river, in 4 hours, the stop was at the place named Shimengaon (3870m). When reached to Chortens(just before the village),it began to snow and slowly wind began to blow in high rate. From the village it was time to cross the river and climb steep hill to reach Shimen La(4270m).It was not hard climb but when approached to the La,heavy wind made me difficult to move forward but I made continuous effort to step ahead (turning by body).Even after crossing the pass,the wind was at same speed that blew the plastic which I used to cover my bag.In total about 3 hours of walking made my way to Komas which is also called Komagaon.Thanks to teachers from the school in the village for helping to find place to stay and for nice conversation.
Black and White…
Day 114 : Komas to Saldang
The day was to reach village of actor Thinley from the film CARAVAN/HIMALAYA. Unfortunately I couldn’t meet him. It took me 4 hours to reach Saldang.First ascend for about 1.5 hours to reach Koma La then descend down. Again thanks to teachers from the school of the village for providing food and accommodation.
Day 115 : Saldang to Shey Gomba
Saying good bye to the teachers,I followed the trail to Shey Gompa.Around in 2.75 hours I reached to Namgung where I saw a camping site nearby river and old monastery on the lap of hill surrounded by few houses. It was windy and cloudy which made me feel dam cold….my fingers..huuuhh…..Climbed to Shey La(5010m) which took 3.5 hours and descent down for 2 hours to reach SheyGompa.The monastery is considered to be 800 years old.
“Face of Dolpo..”
Day 116 : Shey Gomba to Forest Camp site
First hard climb for 5.5hours to the Nangdal Pass(5360m) then steep descend till I reach to level of Phoksundo river.It was hard climb because of snow and hunger.Descend was much more difficult due to knee pain and several crossing of rivers along the gorge. The water was super…..freezy….Once I fell down in river and was ridiculous hurting my right knee too.After hard descent of 3.5 hours and walking for one more hours,tented somewhere in the middle of jungle. This is why I call it Forest Camp site.I could meet caravan of people heading toward highland in search of Yarsagumba(Cordiceps).
“Chiso Chiso panima….”
Day 117 : Forest Camp site to Phoksundo Lake(Ringmo Gaon)
Again it was not easy to cross the river on bare foot early in the morning but what to do????? there was no option besides getting into river to cross it.Walking on flat big ground for 1.45 minutes made my first touch with Shey Phoksundo lake.Can`t explain my happiness in words and its beauty.I spent about an hour taking photographs and enjoying the nature.Inspired by nature, I didn`t mind walking for next 3 hours along the right side of lake to reach Ringmogaon which is situated in another end of the lake. You can imagine how big was the lake.The “Y” shaped lake is holy shrine for Bon people of Dolpo. Among entire place if I was to choose one place as my favourite then Shey Phoksundo lake for sure would get my vote. Boys and girls make sure you be there atleast once in period of your lifetime.