“Danphe Lagna”

The weather was cloudy and slowly it began to rain. The trail was muddy which made me difficult to walk. Till Dhanphe Lagna (3720m),it was steep ascend which took me 4 hours. But descending was much more tougher due to muddy trail and I mistook my foot many time. Not fun…..really its not fun…After struggling to overcome muddy trail for three hours, i made my way to Neurigad.

Day 126: Neurigad to Rara Lake

“First sight of Rara Lake..”

Thank God, the weather was good. After tea and biscuits, I walked ahead. In 3.5 hours walking I reached to Daba leaving Chautha behind. From Daba,you could go to Gamgadhi;headqaurter of Mugu or Rara Lake.My destination was Rara Lake so I had to take left route within forest and climb up to the hill but didn`t know what exactly the hill was called.The hilltop is rewarding viewpoint to witness marvelous Rara lake. Then descent down along the forest and reached to pastureland next to Lake where I saw lots of sheep’s grazing in the field. It was superb view and I felt like I was in heaven. It was 5 hours walk to reach Rara lake from Daba. Rara Lake is the largest lake in Nepal at the altitude of 2990m.

Day 127 : Rara Lake to Talcha Airport to Nepalgunj

“Talcha Airstrip”

From Rara Lake to Talcha airport it was 2.5 hour of easy walk.

“Last dispatch from Talcha airport.”

June 3, 2011 and here I am at the Talcha airport, Mugu. It is not a big airport, and has a graveled run-way, quite scary when I first saw it for myself. I know for sure that the take off is not going to be a smooth one. On the side of the runway were the remains of air Kasthamandap, the last thing you don`t want to see before you fly.
I feel rapture in my heart and mind; some sort of peace and desire to be back home has filled me with excitement. My tummy grumbles with joy, and I say just few more hours left for my mother’s gourmet cooking. It has been more than 120 days without a good meal, I have lost some 6 kg.
Finally, here I am on the plane at noon, flying towards Nepalgunj where I am to take a bus to Kathmandu…..

” After 128 days”

“Its beginning of the end. See you in next adventure”

Day 118 : Ringmo Gaon to Chepka

Following the Phoksundo river and climbing  uphill and descending steep downward to reach the level of the river , leaving winter village named Polam behind, I reached  to  Jharana Hotel. Walking along the riverside trail and sometime chasing narrow trail across the hill for 7.5 hours, my destination of the day was Chepka.Between Jharana hotel and Chepka, there is no hotel for lunch so make sure you carry some pack lunch.

Day 119 : Chepka to Tripurakot

Followed southern trail to reach Sulighat for 4 hours. After lunch, crossing the river, I followed same river  flowing towards west to reach Tripurakot. Walking on under-construction road , it took me 4 more hours to reach Tripurakot.

Day 120 : Tripurakot to Godakhor

Leaving Bagar Bazaar of Tripurakot, I headed towards Ghodakhor.Locals said there are two ways to reach Ghodakhor one via Liku and next via Khati Bada. They said trail via Liku was shorter but it still took me 9 hours to reach Godhakhor  with my tortoise pace.

Day 121 : Godakhor to Chaurikot

Climbing upto Balangra Lagna(3760m),then it was time to descend down to reach Kaigaon(2610m) which was  5.5 hours away. Descending was not easy due my knee problem, so I had to slow down.During lunch break, a national park staff came towards me and inquired me about the permit. Even when I told I am Nepali and I do not need permit, he didn’t believe so I showed my driving license to prove  that I am Nepali.  Then I followed my way to Chaurikot soaking in rain.It took me 4.5 hours to reach Chaurikot.

Day 122 : Chaurikot to Chotro

Again from Chaurikot,it was time to climb till Maure Lagna(3894).I met some students from Dunai heading to Jumla to attend Karnali Technical School in Jumla.We walked together for while and they asked why I was carrying national flag and so on..After about an hour of conversation while walking, they overtook me since they were in rush. When I knew there was no place to eat after Nauli (before Maure Lagna),I ate lunch there and climb up again and follow straight way along the pastureland to reach Chotro.It took me 2.5 hours to reach Nauli and 4.5 hours to reach Chotro.

Day 123 : Chotro to Jumla

From Chotro,they trail was easy no climbing up nor steep descend. Walked for 2.5 hours to reachKudigaon leaving Manisangu behind. There I met a boy with dozen of mules and the mules carries goods to different places in west. He offered me help  to carry some of my heavy stuffs which made me very easy to walk to walk with light weight. He is really friendly boy and for sure, helpful.We reached Gothichaur where you  can find Sheep breeding center.Till the lunch would be ready,I visited the breeding center and talked with staffs there.It is under constructions it was destroyed during civil war in Nepal.It was 1.5 hours walk from Kudigaon.Gothichaur is big flat pastureland..its just amazing. Then it was 4.5 hours walk to reach Jumla.

Day 124 : In Jumla

Jumla is trade center for west Nepal especially for hilly and mountain region. In Jumla you can find good hotel and lodges –very good one. Banking facilities, telecommunication, school, college and many other government authorities. Airport in Jumla is the airport in hilly region getting maximum number of flight. However the place looked dirty with plastics thrown everywhere haphazardly.

Shey Phoksundo Lake

Day 106 : Dolpa Camp 1

Huh..it was Dolpo.I was dam excited to go through Dolpo region. Following about 10 minutes same way to Mustang, crossing Kaligandaki river and began climbing uphill from nearby village named Tirigaon.It took 6 hours to reach Jeula Danda(hill) and was really hard climb with my heavy backpack. Continued to walk for 45 minutes and encountered flat place with stream running just nearby the ground (N 28,52’42.62”-E083,43’44.83”).I didn`t know what exactly the place is called so didn’t they. Fortunately there was a boy with three Nepali camped on same site. So I decided to camp there too.They were going towards Kagbeni having completed Lower Dolpo Trek.

Thats the cave!!!

Day 107 : A night in a cave

I was entering completely into the different world and enjoyed scenery of unknown world. The trail was flat and steep descend to Dundhok River, which was 3.5 hours of walk. Then slow ascend about 1000m will led to hill which consisted Chorten (Buddhist monument) and a village on opposite side. We passed the straight graveled narrow trail, which was bit, scary and luckily didn’t have any accident. After walking for 5.5 hours I reached to a cave and decided to spend a night in the cave (N28,53’50.29”-E083,36’1.76”).

“Home is where my tent is..”

Day 108 : Cave to Norbulung

Some people, I met on the way suggested me that the trail I was heading was scary due to danger of falling rocks, narrow trail and graveled path. But I dared to go ahead( may be I was stupid then) and was not easy way in real. It was breathe…….taking….(not amazing)It was short way and short way is never easy.It took 6.5 hours to reach Niwar Pass(5120m) then descend to Norbulung for 3.5 hours.

“Ya..thats the rocky trail I had to conquer ….”

Day 109: Norbulung to Charka Bhot (4110m)

Walking along the Thansan River and crossing river several time to follow right trail, crossing some of the huge Yak pastureland, it took 6 hours to reach Charka Bhot

“Face of Dolpo..”

Day 110 : Charka Bhot

My knee was not in good condition and had fever so I decided to take rest for one day in Charka. Charka is huge village has few local shops, school, health post (but no medicine and no health worker).

“Walking on no man`s land..”

Day 111 : Charka Bhot to Rapka (4535m)

Clouds covering high hills and snow pouring down, then for sure I could say that weather was not in my favour. But I still had to get going on with my trail. Leaving Charka behind, crossing Chortens,I climbed Yak pastureland and in 4.25 hours I reached Mola La(5027m) and descent for 4hours to reach Rapka.Rapka is big pastureland where you can’t find any houses. Again for one more night my tent was my home.

“Getting higher and higher…”

Day 112 : Rapka to Tinje (4150m)

Leaving campsite on the bank of river in Rapka, after walking for 6.5 hours, reached to big village named Tinje. Just after crossing the mysterious old Tinje airport, I met young boy from the village. When I asked if I could find hotel or any place to live,he welcomed me to his house. He could speak just few Nepali word but I was amazed with his father`s fluent Nepali.Most of the people from the village didn’t know Nepali language, they only spoke their mother tongue language; Tibetan origin language which I could understand. When I spoke Tibetan with them, they treated me as their family member and they were really friendly and helpful.

Day 113 : Tinje to Komas (4060m)

The trail was narrow and following the river, in 4 hours, the stop was at the place named Shimengaon (3870m). When reached to Chortens(just before the village),it began to snow and slowly wind began to blow in high rate. From the village it was time to cross the river and climb steep hill to reach Shimen La(4270m).It was not hard climb but when approached to the La,heavy wind made me difficult to move forward but I made continuous effort to step ahead (turning by body).Even after crossing the pass,the wind was at same speed that blew the plastic which I used to cover my bag.In total about 3 hours of walking made my way to Komas which is also called Komagaon.Thanks to teachers from the school in the village for helping to find place to stay and for nice conversation.

Black and White…

Day 114 : Komas to Saldang

The day was to reach village of actor Thinley from the film CARAVAN/HIMALAYA. Unfortunately I couldn’t meet him. It took me 4 hours to reach Saldang.First ascend for about 1.5 hours to reach Koma La then descend down. Again thanks to teachers from the school of the village for providing food and accommodation.

Day 115 : Saldang to Shey Gomba

Saying good bye to the teachers,I followed the trail to Shey Gompa.Around in 2.75 hours I reached to Namgung where I saw a camping site nearby river and old monastery on the lap of hill surrounded by few houses. It was windy and cloudy which made me feel dam cold….my fingers..huuuhh…..Climbed to Shey La(5010m) which took 3.5 hours and descent down for 2 hours to reach SheyGompa.The monastery is considered to be 800 years old.

“Face of Dolpo..”

Day 116 : Shey Gomba to Forest Camp site

First hard climb for 5.5hours to the Nangdal Pass(5360m) then steep descend till I reach to level of Phoksundo river.It was hard climb because of snow and hunger.Descend was much more difficult due to knee pain and several crossing of rivers along the gorge. The water was super…..freezy….Once I fell down in river and was ridiculous hurting my right knee too.After hard descent of 3.5 hours and walking for one more hours,tented somewhere in the middle of jungle. This is why I call it Forest Camp site.I could meet caravan of people heading toward highland in search of Yarsagumba(Cordiceps).

“Chiso Chiso panima….”

Day 117 : Forest Camp site to Phoksundo Lake(Ringmo Gaon)

Again it was not easy to cross the river on bare foot early in the morning but what to do????? there was no option besides getting into river to cross it.Walking on flat big ground for 1.45 minutes made my first touch with Shey Phoksundo lake.Can`t explain my happiness in words and its beauty.I spent about an hour taking photographs and enjoying the nature.Inspired by nature, I didn`t mind walking for next 3 hours along the right side of lake to reach Ringmogaon which is situated in another end of the lake. You can imagine how big was the lake.The “Y” shaped lake is holy shrine for Bon people of Dolpo. Among entire place if I was to choose one place as my favourite then Shey Phoksundo lake for sure would get my vote. Boys and girls make sure you be there atleast once in period of your lifetime.

Leaving my heavy bag in Kagbeni, I began to walk towards north of Kagbeni along Kaligandaki gorge. Mostly walking on rocky gorge and sometime right side of under-construction roadside to avoid river crossing. Walking along the gorge in fun and is shortcut trail. In 3.5 hours of walking reached to Chuksang for lunch then 1:15minutes to Tsele. Tsele has some four-guest houses.

Day 99 :Zaite

Walking in and out of big sandy hills and enjoying amazing landscapes of deserted high land, in 2 hours of wonderful walk, I reached to Samar. From Samar, I decided to take trail via Chingsi Gompa (cave monastery).Only dumb misses to witness this monastery. Gompa lies at the altitude of 3500m inside the cave on the lap of red colored sandy hill. Japanese woman and one Nepali guide accompanied me. It was 2 hours walk to the Gompa then climb up for 1 hour through canyon to reach Syangmoche for lunch. Then 1.5 hours walk led us to Zaite.

Day 100 : Tsarang

As I walked to north,this time sight of great Himalayas were moving away.Instead I would witness landscape which I can`t express with words. It was 1:45 minutes to reach Ghami, 1:15 minutes to Chingel and finally 1:15 more to reachTsarang.

Day 101: Lo-manthang

It was the day for me to reach king`s palace in Lo-manthang and I was very excited.I have seen the king in photos and heard lot of about him but never met him so this time beside enjoying nature, my  next target was to meet the king of Mustang. It was 3:45 minutes to walk to reach   Lo-manthang.The same day I couldn’t meet the king, as I had no appointment so I just visited Gompas and small and interesting village , Lo-manthang.

Day 102 : Horse ride to Choser

Actually it was rest day for me but when I came to know about horse riding till Choser to visit cave monasteries around, I couldn’t resist to go there and hit the trail with horse ride. Usually people can meet king only in evening time so I got appointment for evening time. After 2.5 hours horse ride, reached to Choser and began visit monasteries. For foreigners it can be expensive to visit all monasteries as each monastery charge NRs.200 per person as entry fee. But for me being Nepali,I didn’t have to pay at all. After wonderful day trip, around 4:30pm I met the king, I was very happy to see him but we couldn’t talk more as he was bit sick.

Day 103 : Lomanthang-Ghar Gumpa –Ghami

It was time for me to return to Kagbeni, I didn’t want to go back through same way so I decided to go via Ghar Gumpa.Following the pastureland and breathtaking landscapes, and in 3.5 hours I reached to Ghar Gumpa. Then finally after 2:45 minutes I reached to Ghami.

Day 104-105 Ghami to Kagbeni

Following the same route I reached to Syanmoche and from there I decided to go through trail via Bhenna (avoiding same trail via Chingsi Gompa) and reach to Samar after 5:15 minutes excluding lunch and regular break duration.I spent a night in Samar.

Next day following same route (Tsele and Chuksang) in 5 hours reached to Kagbeni.There ended my wonderful Mustang journey.

“Khangsar village and Mt. Tilicho”

Day 90 : Chame

Then I was on the trail which I walked when I was at the age of 12.It looked different,for instance, road construction, alternative trekking route and people. After walking for 45 minutes, I reached to Qunche.I was glad that even after not seeing me for last 8 years,owner of Royal Mountain Guest house recognized me. .He is very good friend of my father,thus,it was like family and he insisted me to eat lunch there and start my trip ahead. After a while I reached to Dhanaqyu and from here I had take new route via Timang as old trekking route was destroyed due to road construction. It took me 3 hours to reach Timang and 2 more hours to reach Chame; headquarter of Manang district. Annapurna Circuit Trek well known among trekkers so you don’t have to worry about good food and lodging facilities in all stops.

Day 91: Pisang

My father has been working in Annapurna Region as a trekking guide for more than a decades. I stayed in guesthouses wherever he did and they all treated me not as a client but as their own family member. Thanks to my father for creating wonderful relation with these people. After leaving Moonlight Guest house, I headed towards Pisang.I reached to Dhukur Pokhari after 4 hours of hiking after crossing Bhratang.After lunch there, it was 45 minutes of slow walk to reach Pisang.Hiking was easy as it didn`t consist any heavy ascend nor descend.

Chorten with Tilicho Peak on background.

Day 92:Manang

From Pisang there are two ways to reach Manang. One was lower route via Humde airstrip and next was High route via Ghyaru. When I was for the first time in this region I walked across high route so this time I decided to walk lower route.High route consisted steep ascend till Ghyaru which made trail few hours longer than walking via plain lower route.It took me four hours to reach Braka;the joining point of high and low route and then one hour more walk would take me to Manang. On the way you will be rewarded by breathe-taking views of Annapurna II, Annapurna IV, Lamjung Himal, Mt.Gangapurna , Tilicho Peak and many other snow caped peak and inspiring nature experience.I found low route also very much fascinating.

Day 93: Rest day in Manang

I have been trekking for last 92 days so I thought I need one more day rest in Manang.It can be useful to explore more about Manang v illage.Manang is a himalayan village from which district name “Manang” is derived. For the trekkers, hiking to Chongar view point can be good acclimatization day. Drop from the village to bridge and climb up along left edge of Gangapurna Glacier Lake to reach Chongar View Point from where you can have amazing view blue Gangapurna glacier. Though I didn’t have specific measurement of glacier, I noticed decrease in glacier length to some extend than my last visit. After short day trip, you can enjoy apple pie in Tilicho Bakery.

Day 94 : Attempt to Tilicho Lake

I had immense interest to witness Tilicho Lake situated at the altitude of 4920m (only the lake in the world located at such altitude). Unfortunately I couldn’t make my step there. I walked for 2.15 minutes to reach Khangsar till which trail was perfect. I took popular lower route but its more dangerous due to difficult traverse across steep and unstable graveled slopes. After one and half hour, suddenly I mistook my footing and twisted my left knee. After few minutes rest, I could still feel pain but thought was not so serious problem. But I didn’t dare go ahead along that scary trail, since I was alone. I didn’t want to ruin my whole trip due to my knee, thus, came back to Manang and had good rest.

Day 95 : Thorang La High Camp (4926m)

When I woke up, I had no pain but descending from staircase made me feel my knee. Thus,I thought walk more.You might think I was fool when I say I want to walk two camps with twisted knee. Actually I was trying to ease my descend from Thorang La next day.I knew after Thorang La,I would encounter steep sloppy descend. My point was if I could make it to High camp then I could take more time to descend slowly.When I told some tourist on the way that I was to reach High camp same day,they responded “You crazy.carrying such a big backpack…??…dont you feel altitude…???”But I made my way to the High Camp after 6.5 hours walk excluding my lunch time and rest duration.Stops before High Camp were Yak Kharka,Ledar and Thorang Phedi.

Thats me ! on the top of Thorang La (5416m)

Day 96: High Camp-Thorang La (5416m)-Muktinath (3700m)

At altitude of 4926m,I didn’t feel cold but still didn`t have good sleep. Started walking around 5am and 2.5 hours of climbing made myself to top at Thorang La.I disliked weather condition as it was snowing and heavy wind blowing in opposite direction making me and other trekking fellows difficult to walk. At the top I could see prayer flags flattering and sign board-stating congratulation for successful attempt to Thorang La.Besides bad weather I could see people taking photograph for their lifetime memory. Sometime later weather got bit better so I didn’t miss to get history-making picture with prayer flags. Then slow descend to reach Muktinath then Ranipauwa(15minutes walk) where guest house were available.It took me 4 hours of walking and about one hour of rest in several places.

Day 97: Muktinath to Kagbeni

Muktinath to Kagbeni was short walk of 3 hours.In the morning I went to visit Muktinath Temple and religious shrine of Muktinath.This place is religiously important for both Hindus and Buddhists as it consisted temple and monasteries respectively.

Annapurna Circuit then drops down to Jomsom and finally to Pokhara but I was not ending my trip there as my next destination will be Upper Mustang/Lo-Manthang region.After that I was to connect Upper Dolpa trek.

]]> http://thenomadicnepali.com/annapurna-circuit-trek/feed/ 0 http://thenomadicnepali.com/manaslu-circuit-trek-2/ http://thenomadicnepali.com/manaslu-circuit-trek-2/#comments Thu, 19 Apr 2012 07:08:45 +0000 nomadicnepali http://thenomadicnepali.com/?p=2036 Day 78 :Arughat

After whole day( for 8.25hr) bus trip I reached to Arughat introducing myself to Manaslu Trekking trail.There was no direct bus from Syaphru Bensi to Arughat.I had to take help of three buses to reach Arughat.Arughat is big place where you can find lodges,shops.

Day 79 :Lapubesi

“I am world`s no.1 Barber. lol”

It was time for me to walk.After walking on dusty road for 4hours,I reached to Soti Khola.If you dislike to walk on the dusty road then taking jeep can be next option for anyone who intend trek in this region but jeep can be crowded. 4 more hours of walking would take me to Lapubesi leavingLiding behind.Liding is accessible by jeep where you can find good campsite.In Lapubesi you can find basic fooding and accomodation service.Good campsite is possible.

Day 80 : Dhoban

Following Budi Gandaki river,I walked for 4 hrs to reach Machakholagaon.Machakholagaonhas some better guest houses.After ordering lunch,Ranjit;porter from German group and I went to swim in river nearby village to get refreshed.In a day time due to heat of scorching sun it made us difficult to speed up with our walking.After lunch,again 4 more hours of hike  would take us toDhoban.Dhoban has two shops were you can buy biscuits,noodles and cold drinks but no guest house.Some stuffs for sell can be one years more old then expiry date so make sure you look at expiry date when you purchase goods.

Day 81 : Philim

Total 7.5hrs of walking would take us to Philim.Crossing several spots Yaru Kharka,Jagat(lunch camp). Till Ghatekhola the trail was easy.After  crossing bridge,the trail ascent for while to reach Philim.In philim foreigner should register their Manaslu conversation entry permit.You can find lodges and few shops in Philim.

Day 82 : Ghap

“If you fall off the cliff, you die”

My slow walk would take me about 8 hours to reach Ghap.Today the weather was not in my favour.It was showering all time making me more difficult to walk ahead.I had to wait in several places hoping that rain might stop after a while but no way…When I reached to Ghap at 6:30pm,I was completely wet.Before Ghap I walked across villages Deng, Eklebhatti,Bihi Phedi.In Ghap you can find camping site.

Day 83 : Lhogaon

After crossing Ghap,I found the place dam beautiful.More I step into Manaslu region more beautiful I could feel.Greenary,silence was amazing.Sound of birds chippering and trees during wind was relaxing.To reach Lhogaon from Ghap it was 6.5hrs of walking.Lhogaon is big village influenced by Tibetan culture.When you see electric polls and wires,don`t be happy thinking that you will get electricity.Sad thing is there is no electricity since past two years due to some technical problem and nobody had taken any resposibilty to repair it.

Day 84 : Samagaon

Samagaon is the wonderful place so far I have seen in Manaslu region.It was short walk for 3:45minutes to reach the village.When arrived to Samagaon,it began to snow.I could see many people in Mt.Manaslu Guest house preparing for Mt.Manaslu Expedition.There were 18 expedition group in target to summit the Manalsu(8163m)

“Mt.Manalsu(8163m)”

Day 85 : Climb to Manaslu Base Camp

“Life of porters is weighed by weight”

The weather was perfect.In the morning I could see sun striking to Mt.Manaslu making it look red in colour.After breakfast I began to climb towards Manaslu Base Camp.After climbing for three hours together with caravan of porters supplying expedition stuffs to the base camp,I reached toJapanese Base Camp.When I reached there weather became worse and worse so I descend down.Climbing up was not easy for me and more difficult for those porters carrying more than 30kg on that slippery ascend on snow.This time the base Camp was 1.5hrs more ascend from Japanese Base camp.

Day 86 : Samdo

It was short walk of 2:45minutes to reach Samdo.After Samagaon on the way to Samdo you will come across long mani wall and some snow caped peaks making the place a paradise.Samdo is small village but beautiful.there are guest houses and camping sites.People are very friendly .

Day 87 : Dharmasala

Dharmasala which is also known as Larke Base Camp(4470m) is 3 hours of slow walk from Samdo.You can find tented room in Dharmasala.It is very cold there so make sure you have good sleeping bag(-15 comfort).

Day 88 : Larke Pass(5106m) and Bimtang

Start early in the morning to avoid wind on the pass.I started around 4:30am where as some people were heading at 3:30 am.After 3.5 hours, I reached to the pass.Unfortunately the weather was very windy starting from 6am.It was very difficult to walk as wind blew in opposite direction and due to presence of soft snow.Making to the pass in not a big deal but descending down to Bimtang needed more care and handwork.It was steep down descend and slippery and wind in addition.I could witness some porter falling down so be careful.Finally, 5 hours of descend would take me to Bimtang which is big ground with few basic guest houses.

Day 89 : Dharapani

The day was last day to end Manaslu Trek.It was 7 hours of walking to reach Dharapani crossingSurtiKhola,Gowa(lunch camp) and Tilche. It made me sad to see road construction heading towards Larke pass to connect with Tibet border.It is good to have road construction but they should not destroy the trekking trail.I am in favour that every Nepali citizen should have facilities but it doesn`t mean that while doing one work they should destroy other.Concern authorities should construct road without influencing the tourism industry.

After having breakfast,at 7am I started climbing towards Melamchim which would take me about 45 minutes to reach the place.Melamchim is big Hyolmo village with few guest houses.From Melamchim,it was again 4.5 hours steep climb to reach Thadepati.In Thadepati,uncle Jimba offerred egg noodles soup .He owns Sumcho Guest house there.Then 2.5 hours walk will take me my friend`s guest house at Gopte.

Day 69: Lauribina  via Gosainkunda Lake

It took me 3 hours to reach Phedi for lunch.There were two guest houses in Phedi.From Phedi it was 3.15 hours climb to reach Lauribina La which marks border for Nuwakot and Rasuwa district(my home district).I was happy and excited to see many relatives all along the trail of Langtang and Gosainkund Lake.From the La in 45 minuts walk ,I reached to Gosainkund lake where there are 4 guest houses of my relatives,thus,it was long tea break.Then 1 hour more walk to Lauribina.I stayed in Mount Rest Hotel from uncle Tenzing

Day 70-72: My birthplace:Thulo Syaphru

After having breaklfast I descent down for 45 minutes slowly to reach Cholangpati.Again tea break and few minutes conversation about my trip .Then 45 minutes of easy walk took me to sing Gompa.I met grandfather who has been working in Cheese  factory for last 23 years and had lunch together with him.He gave me some cheese.Then my trail continued to Foprang.It was again 30 minutes easy walk along pine and rhododendron trees.Foprang is good view point from where I could see Mt.Langtang Lirung and other snow caped peaks.Then 2 hours of slow descend made my way to my birthpalce;THULO SYAPHRU.The village is filled with all Tamang people who are all my relatives .I met my paternal grandma and all relatives during my rest day in Thulo Syaphru.During my stay there,I was all the time invited either for lunch or dinner or tea.They love me and I love them.

Day 73 : Lama Hotel

My neck was filled with lots of Khatas offered by relatives wishing me good luck for further journey.From Thulo Syaphru 2 hours of descend took me to Baambu. And gradual ascend for 2 more hours made my destination to Lama Hotel at my uncle`s guest house.From him,I came to know my father  with German trekking clients was also on same trail but a day ahead of me. There were six guest houses in Lama hotel.

Day 74 :Kyanjing Gumba

I was very happy and excited not because I was to reach place named Kyanjin Gompa at the altitude of 3870m but I was meeting my father there.Usually Lama Hotel to Kyanjin Gumba is 2 days walk fro foreigner but I decided to walk in a day.My backpack was much more lighter as I sent some of my stuffs directly to Syaphru Bensi.I was walking much better than before. 3.5 hours of walking across the pine,rhododendron trees and others,I reached to Langtang village.You can fine lots of guest houses in the village and along the trail.

“Local woman and child”

The funniest thing was,military in permit check point couldn`t recognise me as Nepali.Even after long conversation,I had to show my nepali citizenship card to prove myself as Nepali..hehehe.About 2 hours of easy walk made my way to Kyanjin Gomba.I met my father  and was happy to see him after more than two months.

Day 75 : Climb Tserku Ri

“My father;my inspiration”

The weather early in the morning was clear with blue sky and giant Mt.Langtang Lirung just ahead of me,thus,I didn`t miss opportunity to take some good snaps of it.Then after breakfast,german clients from my fahter,he and I decided to go to Tserku Ri.It was not easy climb to Tserku Ri for them.Finally after 4 hours of steep uphill hike,we made on the top of Tserku Ri.There,we found ourselves surrounded by mountains in 360 degree direction.Mt.Langtang Lirung,Yala Peak,Dorje Lhakpa,Nayakanga, and many unnamed snow caped mountains and peaks.

Day 76 :Lama Hotel

From Kyanjin I was coming back same way down.But the weather is bad.It snowed till place called Goda Tabela.Then, as I was heading back to low altitude,rain was the case which showered me till I reached to Lama Hotel.It was total 5 hours walk for me to reach Lama hotel from Kyanjin Gomba.

Day 77 :Syaphru Bensi

Finally on 77^th day,I was to reach my house in Syaphru Bensi where I had spent my entire childhood.From Lama hotel,I took upper way via  Sherpagaon.the trail was across the hill till place named Khamjim which was 3.5 hours walk from Lama hotel.The view from the trail was excellent.I could see the whole trail heading to Gosainkund lake and offcourse my birthplace;ThuloSyaphru.In 1.25 hours,I found myself surrounded by many relatives in Syaphru Bensi.They would raise me lot of question about my trip and was really nice to talk with them.I will miss my place,family and relatives when I head to west Nepal.

After visiting office of Sagarmatha Pollution Control Centre and short conversation with president;Kapindra Rai ,I made my way to Thaeso.It was just about one and half hours walk from Namche Bazaar.I was accompanied by Thaeso resident Mr. T.Sherpa.On our conversation along the trail,I came to know a french couple was heading to Tasilapcha La (5755m) too and they will be guided by climber ;D.Sherpa.I was happpy to know  about them.When I met them in hotel,they were the couple met at Pangom.But they really talked to me.

Day 55: Thengbo

“The only friend I could trust”

After breakfast,I followed the french couple and Sherpas but they really walked fast.For me to walk on pace of them with my heavy backpack was not possible.After 2 hours walk ,I reached to Thame and finally to Thame Gumba where I met them again.We had lunch together and I started earlier then them.After walking for 3 hours ,they caught me and we walked together for 30 minutes to reach place named Thengbo.Even when I reached to Thengbo,the couple didn`t talk to me so I was it nervous thinking what if I don`t get help of them in TASILAPCHA pass.I had conversation withh Sherpas,after few minutes conversation,they respected my spirit and told me they will help me in the pass.After Dhal Bhat,it was time to go to bed.There was only one lodge in Thengbo which operated seasonallly.

Day 56-58

Day 56th was big and adventurous day for me.I woke up around 3am and started alone walking at 3:30am thinking that I might make to top of Tasilapcha together with them if I started bit earlier.Day before I came to know they would start around 4:30am.Till 5:30 am I was alone on my way but then they caught me and passed ahead of me.I speeded up so again no way to catch them.I gave up with hope of their help for the pass.slowly I was ascending to rocky trail surrouned by big rocks and glaciers.whenever wind blew,there was risk of falling rocks.After an hour I couldn’t see them.Finally when I made to top of one hill there were in next hill.After  7 hours of walking it was time to ascend up which was almost 90 degree.When I was starting climbing from the base they were almost on top.This was not trekking trail in my opinion,it was horrible.Whenever I tried to climb up,I would slide down due to graveled stony steep.I made slowly to mid of hill with help of my ice axe.I saw the coupled helped by the Sherpas.After an hour I reached to base of one big stone wall.For while what the hell is that as there was no way up.Even there was no alternative besides making me compulsion to climb that stone wall.I tries to climb with help of my ice axe but it was really complex due to my heavy backpack.I screamed for help but there was no one to hear my voice.When I tried for second attempt,weight of bag pulled me down and I falled around 2 and

“You discover your trail”

half meters.And I was saved by my ice axe honestly.I could feel my knees.I cried for while.Crying was not the solution nor descending back to Thengbo was not easy due to steepness and rocky path,thus,I dare to try once more.I thought I was killing myself here on attempt to do Tasilapcha Pass.As coming back my way not easy,I dare to climb thinking I would rather love to die on challenge to cross this most dangerous pass then coming back with high risk. In my third attept I climbed up.Before I thought that would be most challenging but when I climbed up there was long way to reach Tasilapcha.Finally after two more hours of hard work crossing galciers and crevasses without rope made my way to top of Tasilapcha.On the top,I found myself surrounded by one big stone wall in one side and glaciers in rest of the direction.I saw them descending down.I shouted to ask the way,one sherpa suggested me to go left signaling by his hand.But on the left side  there was big glacier.I was print of crampon being used but I had no crampon so I took risk to walk on it.There was steep down and dropped down with help of my ice axe and around 12:45pm I saw them cooking tea thus I met them.Sherpas offered me help to use their rope to drop down on ice wall which was about 20m high.Dropping dowm was more challenging due to glacier and crevasses.Sometime I slided about 5 meters dowm on glacier which made lot of wound on my backpack but thank god not for me.When reached to Rolwaling galcier it was traight walk on glacier so again they speed up their pace.I walked slowly following their footprints.Around 5pm,I lost their footprints and found myself on glacier.I tries to search foot prints for half an hour but no way …I couldn`t find them.I screamed but  no other sound then echo of my voice.I truned my map and took leftside and headed  towards edge of stone and glacier.Between the stone I saw some snow and I slided on it thinking I might reached to  base of stone.It was getting dark and I put my headlight on.I moved down screaming all the time with hope that some one might respond to me.Finally at 6:30pm I heard voice of Sherpa and reached to campsite.Sherpa had no tent so they shared mine.I was very very tired thus after soup I felt asleep.

“It`s dried, pack now”

Next day when I looked to the wall of stone from which I descent down,for while I thought  I was fool because it was so dangerous.If I had missed one step,my destination was only death.The Sherpas told french couple the way would be easy so they returned same way.then on campsite it was just me and the couple.Shoes were frozen,I could put my legs into it so I had to heat them on my gas stove.After that,I packed my backpack and we descent dowm thinking way must be easy as Sherpa told.But searching for half an hour we couldn`t find the way,finally afterwards we saw nail on stone to put rope.I thought that was the way.It was rocky climbing trail.they didn`t dare to go down so I went first and  made my step on base of the stone.when I looked up,I couldn`t believe that I came through it.Each second,my life was on risk.Then we walked along glacier in direction of Tso Rolpa lake but even after walking for seven hours we were still on glacier so we moved to left of glacier.When we  reached to left.i told them  to follow me but they moved towards the lake and I was climbing hill suggested  by my map.Around 4pm I reached to plane ground as told by Sherpas and thought I was in right trail and they were on wrong way.Suddenly weather became worse and began to snow.They responded me stating they couldn’t find the way and I told them to climb towards me.It was really dangerous because all the time stones would fall down and I could hear the sound of avalanches in every few minutes and more than that the weather was  getting worse and worse.Anyway I was happy to see them after an hour.We decided to camp there and start the trail next day.It was 9 hours trip in total.

I slept just for about an hour because all the  night I could hear sound of avalanche and stone falls.It was freezing cold and snowing.In the morning,the weather was good.I came out of my tent ,my shoes were frozen.There was no more fuel so I had to wait for sun to melt down ice on shoes.The condition was same for them.We waited for sun and dried our shoes and started walking around 9am.Then we were good friends ( I guess),I found them more friendly to me.Finally after 5 hours of hard work we reached to Nagaon.It was very risky and challenging trip I had so far.

I don`t recommend to do this pass alone.Make sureyou have rope,crampon and experienced Sherpa accompanied to do Tasilapcha Pass.Good luck if you are daring to do it.

“Thank you mountain God”