Day 54: Thaeso
After visiting office of Sagarmatha Pollution Control Centre and short conversation with president;Kapindra Rai ,I made my way to Thaeso.It was just about one and half hours walk from Namche Bazaar.I was accompanied by Thaeso resident Mr. T.Sherpa.On our conversation along the trail,I came to know a french couple was heading to Tasilapcha La (5755m) too and they will be guided by climber ;D.Sherpa.I was happpy to know about them.When I met them in hotel,they were the couple met at Pangom.But they really talked to me.
Day 55: Thengbo
After breakfast,I followed the french couple and Sherpas but they really walked fast.For me to walk on pace of them with my heavy backpack was not possible.After 2 hours walk ,I reached to Thame and finally to Thame Gumba where I met them again.We had lunch together and I started earlier then them.After walking for 3 hours ,they caught me and we walked together for 30 minutes to reach place named Thengbo.Even when I reached to Thengbo,the couple didn’t talk to me so I was it nervous thinking what if I don`t get help of them in TASILAPCHA pass.I had conversation with Sherpas,after few minutes conversation,they respected my spirit and told me they will help me in the pass.After Dhal Bhat,it was time to go to bed.There was only one lodge in Thengbo which operated seasonally.
Day 56th was big and adventurous day for me.I woke up around 3am and started alone walking at 3:30am thinking that I might make to top of Tasilapcha together with them if I started bit earlier.Day before I came to know they would start around 4:30am.Till 5:30 am I was alone on my way but then they caught me and passed ahead of me.I speeded up so again no way to catch them.I gave up with hope of their help for the pass.slowly I was ascending to rocky trail surrounded by big rocks and glaciers.whenever wind blew,there was risk of falling rocks.After an hour I couldn’t see them.Finally when I made to top of one hill there were in next hill.After 7 hours of walking it was time to ascend up which was almost 90 degree.When I was starting climbing from the base they were almost on top.This was not trekking trail in my opinion,it was horrible.Whenever I tried to climb up,I would slide down due to graveled stony steep.I made slowly to mid of hill with help of my ice axe.I saw the coupled helped by the Sherpas.After an hour I reached to base of one big stone wall.For while what the hell is that as there was no way up.Even there was no alternative besides making me compulsion to climb that stone wall.I tries to climb with help of my ice axe but it was really complex due to my heavy backpack.I screamed for help but there was no one to hear my voice.When I tried for second attempt,weight of bag pulled me down and I fell around 2 and half meters.And I was saved by my ice axe honestly.I could feel my knees.I cried for while.Crying was not the solution nor descending back to Thengbo was not easy due to steepness and rocky path,thus,I dare to try once more.I thought I was killing myself here on attempt to do Tasilapcha Pass.As coming back my way not easy,I dare to climb thinking I would rather love to die on challenge to cross this most dangerous pass then coming back with high risk. In my third attempt I climbed up.Before I thought that would be most challenging but when I climbed up there was long way to reach Tasilapcha. Finally after two more hours of hard work crossing glaciers and crevasses without rope made my way to top of Tasilapcha.
On the top,I found myself surrounded by one big stone wall in one side and glaciers in rest of the direction.I saw them descending down.I shouted to ask the way,one sherpa suggested me to go left signaling by his hand.But on the left side there was big glacier.I was print of crampon being used but I had no crampon so I took risk to walk on it.There was steep down and dropped down with help of my ice axe and around 12:45pm I saw them cooking tea thus I met them.Sherpas offered me help to use their rope to drop down on ice wall which was about 20m high.Dropping down was more challenging due to glacier and crevasses.Sometime I slide about 5 meters down on glacier which made lot of wound on my backpack but thank god not for me.When reached to Rolwaling glacier it was straight walk on glacier so again they speed up their pace.I walked slowly following their footprints.Around 5pm,I lost their footprints and found myself on glacier.I tries to search foot prints for half an hour but no way …I couldn’t find them.I screamed but no other sound then echo of my voice.I turned my map and took left-side and headed towards edge of stone and glacier.Between the stone I saw some snow and I slide on it thinking I might reached to base of stone.It was getting dark and I put my headlight on.I moved down screaming all the time with hope that some one might respond to me.Finally at 6:30pm I heard voice of Sherpa and reached to campsite.Sherpa had no tent so they shared mine.I was very very tired thus after soup I felt asleep.
Next day when I looked to the wall of stone from which I descent down,for while I thought I was fool because it was so dangerous.If I had missed one step,my destination was only death.The Sherpas told french couple the way would be easy so they returned same way.then on campsite it was just me and the couple.Shoes were frozen,I could put my legs into it so I had to heat them on my gas stove.After that,I packed my backpack and we descent down thinking way must be easy as Sherpa told.But searching for half an hour we couldn’t find the way,finally afterwards we saw nail on stone to put rope.I thought that was the way.It was rocky climbing trail.they didn’t dare to go down so I went first and made my step on base of the stone.when I looked up,I couldn’t believe that I came through it.Each second,my life was on risk.Then we walked along glacier in direction of Tso Rolpa lake but even after walking for seven hours we were still on glacier so we moved to left of glacier.When we reached to left.i told them to follow me but they moved towards the lake and I was climbing hill suggested by my map.Around 4pm I reached to plane ground as told by Sherpas and thought I was in right trail and they were on wrong way.Suddenly weather became worse and began to snow.They responded me stating they couldn’t find the way and I told them to climb towards me.It was really dangerous because all the time stones would fall down and I could hear the sound of avalanches in every few minutes and more than that the weather was getting worse and worse.Anyway I was happy to see them after an hour.We decided to camp there and start the trail next day.It was 9 hours trip in total.
I slept just for about an hour because all the night I could hear sound of avalanche and stone falls.It was freezing cold and snowing.In the morning,the weather was good.I came out of my tent ,my shoes were frozen.There was no more fuel so I had to wait for sun to melt down ice on shoes.The condition was same for them.We waited for sun and dried our shoes and started walking around 9am.Then we were good friends ( I guess),I found them more friendly to me.Finally after 5 hours of hard work we reached to Nagaon.It was very risky and challenging trip I had so far.
I don`t recommend to do this pass alone.Make sure you have rope,crampon and experienced climber accompanied to do Tasilapcha Pass.Good luck if you are daring to do it.